If I needed any further evidence that time is operating on fast-forward, tonight and tomorrow Samyak Mahadan is being celebrated in Patan. I was there the last time it was held, in late February 2020, when I took these photos; in fact it was the last big festival I attended before things changed; a month later we’d be in lockdown.
Samyak Mahadan is a Newari Buddhist festival held in Nagbahal, Patan—it also takes place, albeit on a different schedule, in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur—that brings together 127 Buddha statues from their resting places throughout the old city into one historic square, drawing hundreds of thousands of almsgiving devotees. This article, written by a talented young woman I had the pleasure of working with some years ago, offers more insight than I could give and is worth a read if you’re curious to learn more.
Long, long lines twisted and turned around the square, doubling back and around as everyone waited, patiently but in a distinctly festive mood, for the chance to pay their respects. This good-natured fellow was on hand with water for when people got thirsty. At least, think it was water…
Everything was brightly colored, there was a troupe of traditional musicians at some point, and I couldn’t help think that the best view of all was to be had by those who lived on the square itself, as they leaned out of their windows to enjoy the atmosphere.
There’s just one thing that’s confusing me: while some sources say the Patan Samayak Mahadan happens every four years, most people (and internet articles) have told me it’s every five years. As I was at the last one in 2020, I know that this time it’s only been four. Does anyone reading this know the reason for the discrepancy and if you do can you please enlighten me? Does it alternate between four years and five? I’ll update this post if I find out.
What I do know is that even after attending many festivals and ceremonies here, this was a truly unique and spectacular experience and if you’re reading this from Kathmandu, it’s not too late to attend the second day, tomorrow.